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Arnolds Fried Catfish, Mac n' Cheese, and Green Beans - courtesy of Bon Appetit |
It was nice to see Bon Appetit throw a little love towards my beloved city of Nashville today. In it's fantastic article, Black Key's Dan Auerbach reveals his favorite local haunts - highlighting everything foodie to meat and three. For those fans of Anthony Bourdain, it seems as though Auerbach has pulled a page out of his playbook. Riding alongside chefs to discover the food and drink that provide the pulse behind one of America's best music (and food) scenes. Visit here for full text, photos, and videos.
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It's just past midnight on Saturday, and I'm in the backseat of chef
Tandy Wilson's Toyota pickup. Riding shotgun is Dan Auerbach,
singer-guitarist for the Grammy-winning band the Black Keys. He's
flipping through Wilson's CDs, nodding in approval at some, snickering
at others. No one wants to have their music judged by a rock star any
more than they'd want Tom Colicchio standing over them as they make
omelets on a Sunday morning. Eventually, Auerbach settles on live Allman
Brothers and talk turns to a more pressing issue: whether to order mild
or medium-hot at our destination, the one-of-a-kind Prince's Hot
Chicken in Nashville, Tennessee.
As for how I wound up in a truck with a chef and a musician on the
way to my third meal of the night, let me rewind. I'd visited Nashville a
few times while growing up in Atlanta. Back then, it meant one thing to
me: country music. I liked Nirvana, so I dismissed the place. Then a
year or so ago—
boom—the Southern food revolution hit. Suddenly,
New Yorkers were eating grits (and loving it). Critics were talking
about biscuits and fried chicken like they were blinis and caviar.
Nose-to-tail eating, canning, curing, bourbon—things that have been part
of the South's culinary traditions for centuries—were now obsessed over
from coast to coast. Being Southern and eating Southern were cool; the
restaurants and ingredients down South are better than ever. And nowhere
was this more apparent, I'd heard, than in Nashville. So when my friend
Dan, who'd recently moved there, invited me down, I was on a plane a
week later.
"I gotta be honest," Auerbach says as we slurp tortilla soup at Mas
Tacos Por Favor on my first day in town. "I moved here partly because of
the food." That's not hard to believe. He's lived in Nashville for a
year and already has opinions on everything from where to find the best
pho
to who makes a "proper" cortado. But it's not just food (and drink!)
that's making Nashville the South's City of the Moment. IN my week on
the ground, I felt the energy of a city in motion. I saw it in the faces
of the staff at Imogene + Willie, a shop selling handmade clothes in a
former gas station; smelled it in the smoked cacao-nib brittle made by
Oliver & Sinclair Chocolate Co.; heard it at Auerbach's recording
studio. And yes, I tasted it, in everything from Arnold's Country
Kitchen fried chicken livers and collard greens (made with wasabi, by
the way) to drinks poured with locally made Corsair Artisan spirits to
that tortilla soup.
People like Auerbach and Wilson are driving this movement. Ask ten
locals to name their favorite restaurant and seven will answer City
House. On any given night, Wilson's place, which is hidden in a
residential area, is filled with Nashville's elite: politicians,
artists, chefs, and musicians. "If I'm not touring," says Auerbach, "I'm
probably there eating the octopus with butter beans, the North Carolina
mussels with linguine, and the belly-ham pizza." My meal at City House
is a delicious progression of mint-and-citrus-spiked corn salad,
cornmeal-crusted North Carolina catfish with fall salsa, and pulled pork
served over house-made fettuccine. (Note to chefs: Combine Italian and
Southern traditions in one dish and I'm all yours.)
A few minutes away, Wilson's culinary soul mate, Tyler Brown, runs
the Capitol Grille (no affiliation with the steak-house chain) in the
stately, 100-year-old Hermitage Hotel. Know in Nashville food circles as
"TnT", Tandy and Tyler share a passion for Southern kitchen traditions
while keeping their food modern and fresh. Brown is also an
heirloom-ingredient junkie. He starts most days at the restaurant's
66-acre Glen Leven farm, just five miles from the hotel, picking
vegetables for that day's menu. One morning I tag along, harvesting
purple okra and sesame seeds. Brown's got beehives for honey, but most
impressive his his herd of cattle, raised for the restaurant's
exceptional burgers and steaks. The whole operation is proof that "farm
to table" is more than a marketing slogan.
Like most great food cities, Nashville nails both the high and the
low ends. For lunch one day, Auerbach and I drive a half hour to
Martin's Bar-B-Que Joint in Nolensville, where pitmaster and chef
Patrick Martin pulls what locals call "redneck spaghetti," the long
strands of meat from the belly of a 200-pound pig that's been cooked low
and slow for 24 hours. No matter how you order it—on a slider,
straight-up purist style, or on a cornbread pancake topped with sweet
BBQ sauce and coleslaw (called a "redneck taco" on the menu)—it's
barbecue so addictive that states should regulate it.
A few hours later, I'm back downtown for dinner at the Catbird Seat,
run by Benjamin Goldberg and chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger. With
its 20-seat chefs' counter, set menu, and technique-driven food, the
endearingly earnest spot pulls off the kind of fine dining that you'd
expect to find in New York or even Copenhagen. If you're lucky you'll be
served a crispy piece of chili-dusted chicken skin as an
amuse-bouche,
their take on hot chicken. The food is 180 degrees from Patrick
Martin's, but somehow it's part of the same movement—and the same
moment.
Back at Prince's, 15 minutes away, Auerbach, Wilson and I are
sweating through a crispy bird fried with loads of cayenne, served with
pickles and white bread to absorb the lip-tinging grease. Then we make
our way to City House for a nightcap at 2:00 a.m. Wilson pours some rare
Tennessee whiskey while Auerbach plays DJ. This time, it's the Grateful
Dead. My stay in Nashville is coming to an end, but I know I'll be back
soon. In my week here I've discovered a group of artisans rooted in
Southern traditions, each tackling his or her thing—be it food, fashion,
or music—in a fresh, inspiring way. I've seen a place that embodies New
South cool, mixing country and city, high and low. And while I'm no
rock star, with help from my friend Dan, I've certainly eaten like one.
GET THE RECIPES FROM THIS STORY:
Tortilla Soup
Rosa Mae
Fried Catfish
Southern Mac and Cheese
Read More http://www.bonappetit.com/magazine/2012/02/nashville-with-dan-auerbach#ixzz1juvWFwpG